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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 15th, 2023

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  • It’s been a while since I looked at EVs, but my (US) experience at the time was that Tesla was one of very few companies offering sedan-shaped EVs. The US market was full of crossovers & SUVs (like Rivian), and that form factor seems antagonistic to many of the things that make high performance, long range EVs: terrible aerodynamics, high body weight, poor visibility… They’re big enough to fill will batteries to compensate for the poor efficiency, but that just raises costs.



  • I think youre misunderstanding that I am referring to the same 20% the entire time. Yes, two different destinations for money in savings (emergency and retirement separately). Their calculations also assume that that 20% is also going towards paying down any debts.

    I feel like you’re conflating assets and income. Paying down debts is not saving. Paying down debt could be a mandatory expense, like mortgage, or it could be discretionary, like paying off credit debt accumulated on that European vacation, but it’s not saving. An emergency fund is a thing you have, not a revolving account that you spend every year and re-accumulate. It can take a few years to accumulate, because you only sacrifice it for emergencies - not a car repair you’ve been putting off. The only difference between an emergency fund and retirement savings is that the government punishes you for spending designated retirement savings.

    The reason I made these isnt even to argue for a certain wage of any kind. The point is to see just how far off all working class Americans are from any level of comfort.

    But by choosing ‘comfortable’ as a reference, titling the post ‘cost of living,’ and comparing it to the minimum wage, you open yourself to exactly this criticism. To appearing to make a bad faith argument by exaggerating the ‘cost of living’ by including 25% surplus over the actual cost of living, not to mention 60% discretionary spending over the costs of rent, food, utilities, clothing, etc. If you’re going to compare income and lifestyle, you have to choose a lifestyle that fits the social class, otherwise you risk sounding like lawyers barely scraping by on $500k.

    Where did all the money go, if people were being paid the equivalent of $35 an hour today 75 years ago?

    Where did $35/hr wage come from? It’s not in any of the graphics. Minimum wage in 1950 was $0.75/hr, which is only $10.25 today. Are you referencing median wage? That would be a much better comparison with ‘comfortable’ lifestyle, but median income today is close to $60k/year, depending on how you count.


  • 6 months worth of living expenses in 2025 is gonna be, median, $10k in rent/mortgage payments alone. That in and of itself is like 14% of someones annual income at $35 an hour.

    I truly fail to see how 20% saved annually isnt something reasonable, considering the need for different draws out of some of it will come sporadically, while you also need to be saving for your retirement in some inevitably inflated future where everything is even more ridiculously expensive than it is now.

    The first describes a total emergency fund of 14% annual income that would provide 6 months rent. The second describes annual contributions of 20%, which seems like it provides 6 months living expenses for every year worked. That’s an awesome goal, and kudos to anyone who can do it. I did. It let me retire at 45, which is several steps beyond “living comfortably.”





  • I switched from an I3-530, nominal TDP 73W, to an N-100, nominal TDP 7W, and power from the wall didn’t change at all. Even the i3 ran around 0.1 CPU load, except when transcoding, and I’m left with the impression that most of the power goes into HDDs, RAM, maybe fans, and PS losses. My sense is that the best way to decrease homelab power use is to minimize the number of devices. Start with your seyrver at 60W, add a WAP at 10-15W, maybe a switch at 10-15W… Not because of the CPUs, necessarily, but because every CPU every CPU comes with systems to keep the CPU going, keep the power regulated, etc.







  • My ISP seems to use just normal DHCP for assigning addresses and honors re-use requests. The only times my IP addresses have changed has been I’ve changed the MAC or UUID that connects. I’ve been off-line for a week, come back, and been given the same address. Both IPv4 and v6.

    If one really wants their home systems to be publicly accessible, it’s easy enough to get a cheap vanity domain and point it at whatever address. rDNS won’t work, which would probably interfere with email, but most services don’t really need it. It’s a bit more complicated to detect when your IP changes and script a DNS update, but certainly do-able, if (like OP) one is hell bent on avoiding any off-site hardware.